Viking Description: Napier is an impressive cityscape of art deco architecture often compared to Miami Beach for its splendor. Built after much of the city was destroyed during a 1931 earthquake, the stunning “main street” design and art deco flair combine to create a city unlike any other in the world. The National Aquarium, one of the finest in New Zealand, can be found in Napier. Nearby, Hawke’s Bay boasts more than 70 vineyards. The first ones were introduced by French missionaries during the mid-19th century. The city also holds claim as the largest wool center in the Southern Hemisphere.
Port Arrival: Noon; Port Depart: 6:00pm
We had breakfast in the World Cafe and somehow Barb fell into discussions with two different men, each more boring than the next…said I, sitting silently beside her. Barb’s friend Karen showed up and joined in the banter.
I escaped to a 9:30am lecture on astronomy by the fellow I missed the night before, our Resident Astronomer Dr. Alan E. Wright. He turned out to be an engaging and impressively credentialed Australian gentleman and I enjoyed his survey of the history of astronomy. He would be giving several additional lectures but unfortunately I may have missed the prime opportunity for star gazing.
As we sailed into Napier, Barb and Karen saved me a prime seat in the Explorer’s Lounge in the front of the ship. It was nice, but hard to take pictures through the slanted glass windows. I’m not sure why they weren’t letting us outside that morning. As we pulled into port, there were more stacks of logs like so many Tinker Toys.
We watched our approach into port until it was time to grab some lunch (I wolfed down a cheeseburger) and get ready for our 12:30 excursion.
- Hawke’s Bay Wine Tasting (Included), Bill and Barb
- Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes, 12:30 PM
- Sample Varietals from Across the Region
- Taste a selection of wines from the renowned Hawke’s Bay region, one of the “Great Wine Capitals” of the world. At the historic Hawkes Bay Club, meet a Hawke’s Bay wine representative who will provide a brief overview of this diverse wine-growing region, best known for its Merlot-Cabernet blends, Syrah and Chardonnay. You will receive your complimentary tasting glass, along with detailed notes of the vintages presented by the eight winemakers in attendance, then begin your tasting journey. Sample up to three varietals from various regions across Hawke’s Bay; once you have discovered your favorite, you will have the option to purchase and send a supply to stock your own cellar, ready for your return home. In the Heritage Room, local artisan producers will be offering a selection of delicacies; try a tasty treat before you depart and return to your awaiting ship.
Whereas the previous day’s excursion description was technically accurate but disappointing, this day’s description was less accurate but undersold the afternoon. First off, the Hawke’s Bay Club was an attractive building and garden near the center of town. There were more than eight wineries with tables at the Hawke’s Bay Club ready and willing to provide as many samples as anyone wanted, plus lots of charcuterie snacks. There was no time limit or presentation involved – we were free to indulge as much as we wanted. I frankly wasn’t prepared to indulge much at all, already full from breakfast and lunch. I tried a few wines which were quite nice but I wasn’t eager to buy any, nor were Barb or I eager to stay very long at the club. But we were free to take as much time as we wanted in town and could catch a shuttle back to the ship anytime before 5pm. It was nice to have that flexibility.
It turned out that this was the first day of the Napier Art Deco Festival, a fact that was not even mentioned in the port talk on the ship. The festival is one of New Zealand’s most popular, a chance for all sorts of folks to dress up in 1930’s attire and swan about town. There were dozens of spruced up vintage cars, special tours and activities, and music in the seaside bandshell. Barb and I wandered the town and did some window shopping.
Barb wanted photos with a kiwi so we took the opportunity with a stuffed toy at one of the souvenir shops. She seemed satisfied.
We spent a few minutes by the seashore. The long beach of dark sand was not attracting many people on this slightly cool, sunny day.
We checked out more of the festival goers. The party was just getting started and would extend all weekend.
Barb and I found the town’s library and museum which had a good exhibit on the Hawke’s Bay 1931 earthquake including several filmed testimonials from survivors of the devastating event. There were also displays honoring local Maori notables including oral history video interviews with many, and a useful sign explaining the Maori language.
We spent several low-key hours in town, though I was slowed by my increasingly sore knee…somewhat to Barb’s consternation. She’s supposed to be the one with bad knees. We made it back to the ship in time for Barb to get some tea at 4pm. I got a shower to get ready for our 6:30 dinner reservation at the ship’s most popular and reputedly best restaurant, the Italian Manfredi’s. Before dinner, I monitored our departure from port as we sailed past the Holland America Noordam which arrived after us. There was a cute little show from one of the tugs as we left.
As we went down to Manfredi’s we ran into Barb and Karen who were strategically hoping to glom onto our reservation. The tactic actually worked as the maitre’d sorted out a table for us. Barb stayed safe with a caprese salad and salmon entree and we shared spaghetti carbonara; I ordered frito misto appetizer (good), the well-reviewed rib eye steak (fair), and grilled broccoli (good). The service was excellent, making us all feel special even if the food wasn’t quite. But I was happy to go back again to try some other dishes.
We learned that Karen had a whole history as personal assistant to Barbra Striesand for several decades, as well as working for Stevie Nicks. She also authored a biography of Greta Garbo. She regaled us with a few vaguely behind the scenes stories without revealing anything salacious. We told her our Fleetwood Mac experience at Cap Centre with Lindsay Buckingham’s spinal tap.
I made time after dinner to venture back on deck with a nightcap. I tried taking a shot of the moon and Jupiter and was pretty pleased with the result. I still wasn’t sure about the Southern Cross — there was a prominent constellation but I couldn’t make out a cross. It looked more like a uterus to me.
You must be logged in to post a comment.