Barb and I returned to the Inn at Little Washington for a combination celebration of our 60th birthdays and 35th anniversary. It was our fourth time there, the others celebrating our 10th, 20th and 25th anniversaries. We had to check with Allie about the 25th…I thought maybe it had been 30th but we verified that it must have been 25th because Allie was more or less 13, not 18. She helped figure out that we went to Hawaii for our 30th (and Allie’s high school graduation) and France river cruise. This visit also coincided with the Inn’s year-long 40th anniversary celebrations.
That history established, let me say a few things about the Inn and this visit. The Inn continues to be one of the most remarkable, luxurious and friendliest places in the world we’ve ever been. The food is excellent beyond reproach and is the main reason one comes. But the overall experience of staying at the Inn is what really makes the place special. It is soothing, relaxing, indulgent, pretentious but in an almost winking, non-intimidating way. One day and evening at the Inn, while expensive, feels like a long weekend getaway, if not longer. It’s all part of a carefully orchestrated ethic of customer service and dedication that is remarkable, yet makes so much sense. It reminds me of the service levels found at the very best hotels in Hong Kong and other spots in Asia — a level so very rarely found in the States or Europe. This article in Forbes gives a decent compilation of the Inn’s history and service philosophy.
From the moment you arrive you are greeted with smiles, your name, and the impression that folks at the Inn have been expecting you (“Welcome Back!”). You don’t formally check in but are ushered immediately to the bar for a refreshing drink (sparkling wine with watermelon infusion, this time) and welcome. The car and bags were taken care of with an absolute minimum of fuss. After the welcome, we had the choice of going to our room or having tea in the “living room”. We chose the latter. Even though we’d been through the same drill on previous visits, it all felt new and unrehearsed. You’re quickly reminded that the Inn operates very deliberately as a kind of theater and you are both the audience and part of the performance. The Inn’s founder and chef, Patrick O’Connell, is explicit about the “living theater” philosophy and the idea that they’re hosting “one continuous house party.” You really are made to both feel at home and an honored guest.
For tea we were offered a broad range of selections and even I, not usually a tea drinker, found a very soothing cup of ginger-spiced herbal. Our snacks were a small stack of savories and sweets. We tried our best to make the moment last and not polish them off in 30 seconds. Our drive from home had been a bit more than two hours and though we had good intentions of skipping lunch in anticipation of tea and dinner, we succumbed to the lure of Long John Silver’s in Charles Town, WV, along the way (merely for contrast, I’m sure). The savories were basic and good (a Virginia ham biscuit and salmon-cucumber bite) and the sweets were better (the little chocolate and caramel tarts with a sprinkle of salt on top were the best to me). Barb asked for a second helping of savories and that was one request that seemed to throw the staff into a bit of a loop. After a little wait she was presented a plate with one more little biscuit on it. Portion control seems to be part of the experience.
After tea, we went to the gift shop for a while then made our way to our room, where our bags were already laid out. We were in the Parsonage, just across the street from the Inn. Over the years, O’Connell has been buying up the town of Little Washington, partly out of defense, he says. The Inn has now expanded into multiple buildings and more are on the way, but the town is as quiet as can be and little changed from decades past.
We were only in the room for a few minutes before seeing a notice that there was a tour of the Inn and grounds starting at 4pm. We headed back to the lobby and joined the small walking tour led by Cameron Smith, who was also the cheese waiter, one of the longest-serving staff members, and guilty of some of the most atrocious puns ever.
The tour gave an overview of the Inn’s history, its main building, gardens, expansions into adjacent buildings, and plans for a spa and separate lunch spot in the future. We also walked the “great lawn” to the garden and sheep’s meadow (with several hot sheep and two protective llamas huddling in the shade of a shed), got a pitch for the 40th anniversary “Innstock” celebration coming in September and for the Inn as a destination location for weddings, before ending the tour in the gift shop.
Marketing aside, it is fascinating to consider the Inn’s role in preserving its bucolic bubble in Washington, VA, and to see how O’Connell prepares for his eventual succession. All indications are that he hopes to stay involved for whatever time is needed to garner a third Michelin star, then set the path for future generations.
[Note: The Inn won a third Michelin star in September 2018, a few months after our visit, so I guess we can nearly legitimately say we’ve eaten at a Michelin three-star restaurant — not that it was necessarily a goal of ours, but it sounds like a bucket list item, post facto. Also, interesting to note the distribution of Michelin three-star restaurants around the world. For those keeping score, in 2018 there were 135 three-star restaurants worldwide and 14 in the US. And for even more goofy fun, see the world map from the perspective of all Michelin star restaurants.]
I took a short rest in our room to cool off while Barb went to the Pasonage’s living room to try to check emails (the Inn’s wifi did not adequately support her work VPN connection, so that led to some frustration). While in the room, I watched a seemingly endless loop of clips and propaganda pieces about the Inn (like this one), including several that featured the Inn’s popcorn.
By 6:45 or so, it was time for dinner. I had a cocktail in the lounge, enhanced with a nice assortment of spiced pecans, olives and candied ginger. Barb and I were escorted to our table and presented with personalized menus honoring our mutual birthdays. There were three set meals presented on the menu. Barb chose the Gastronaut’s menu, I went for the Enduring Classics with wine pairings, and we both hardly looked at the vegetarian option. I presented Barb with a gift of anniversary opal earrings, a final purchase from Bermann’s Jewelers before they closed.
It’s hard to recount each of the multiple amuse bouches and courses that followed. They flow in a constant procession. Each was tasty, with ingredients that were inventive and stretched our comfort zones but were not outside our palates. The kitchen often uses unconventional methods and ingredients to achieve pleasing results. Nothing tasted “too strong” or “too spicy”, even for Barb. The foie gras dish I had (traded off of Barb’s menu) was quite sumptuous and helped me understand why it is such a beloved ingredient in France, even if I still had concerns over the method of production.
We noticed that other tables were getting a few things we weren’t, including the memorable “World’s Smallest Baked Potato” we had with Allie on our last visit and the Inn’s famous popcorn. We asked and it was explained that some of the tables had either made special requests or had come on multiple nights so the kitchen changes the menus around. We both wanted the popcorn, which we’d never had, and a few minutes later we each had our own boxes. It was truly delicious, with cheese, herbs and truffles, well worth the extra $24 that showed up on the bill.
I capped off the dinner with cheese, getting the full presentation from Cameron and getting a tasting of five selections. There was a Humboldt Fog blue I particularly liked and will try to keep an eye out for in the future.
After the meal we requested a kitchen tour and were shown in with another couple. It was around 10:30pm and the kitchen was in clean up mode, no chefs in or preparations in sight. We had seen the kitchen before but it remains a treat to go behind the scenes. This time I noticed five words painted on the ceiling. The guide explained it quickly as Chef O’Connell’s reminder to the staff; I haven’t seen it written up anywhere else (clearly, I just needed to look a little bit harder) so let me try to recount it. Each visit to the Inn or restaurant consists of five stages. It’s the duty of the Inn staff to maximize and manage each stage and interaction.
- Anticipation – each visit begins not the day of the visit or even the day of the reservation but the day the customer begins thinking of making a reservation, typically many months in advance. Often the most enjoyable part of the visit is the anticipation. The Inn must do its best with marketing, mindshare, and making it easy to decide to come.
- Trepidation – before arrival or eating, most customers have concerns that they are getting the most from their visit, not messing things up (either with the Inn or with their partner/guests). The Inn must do whatever it can to minimize guest anxiety, answer questions, prepare for the meal/visit.
- Inspection – when they show up or sit down the guests are at their most attentive to make sure everything is in its place. Don’t disappoint.
- Fulfillment – the actual deliver of the meal or overnight stay. Deliver on promises.
- Evaluation – considering the quality and value of the experience, and whether to do it again or recommend to others.
This philosophy pops up in some other areas, including photography; I’m not sure where it started. But I’m coming to agree that it extends to all manner of customer service experiences, and I think it’s even helpful to consider it as a customer. Certainly, I’ve experienced the extended joy of anticipation of a vacation, the trepidation of actually embarking and each of the other stages. I’m also coming to recognize and value the Evaluation phase which this blog/journal accentuates and extends. I’m finding that the evaluation and remembrance of an occasion is often as lingering and enjoyable (or aggravating), and often even more educational, as the anticipation or experience itself.
In terms of Evaluation, that brings up one bothersome note of the evening. I was presented the check and found myself awash in anxiety over what total to tip upon. Our meals were part of our package with the room, paid for months ago. We added some expense with my wine pairings and the extra popcorn. Was a service charge already included with the basic charge? Should I tip based on the whole meal total? I wasn’t sure, but also was too embarrassed to ask, not to mention slightly tipsy and didn’t want to delay our kitchen tour. I ended up tipping at a level that may have been generous for the extras but low for the overall total, figuring that some level of service charge must be built in. But I’m not so sure. The service was delightful and deserving of full marks, but it’s still intimidating (for me) to write a $100+ tip on the bottom line. In our feedback form to the Inn the next day, I noted that it would be helpful to offer a bit more guidance on the check. I hope we don’t forever have a black mark on our customer record with the Inn.
The rest of the stay was pleasant but uneventful. The room was turned down with some little extras when we returned, including a too-cutesy note from Luray, the Inn’s dalmation mascot (I never did try that port or the cookies…they disappeared with the morning’s room service). Our room was nice and functional, but not as memorable as the loft suite we’d previously had in the Inn’s main building.
Breakfast the next morning was a spread of fruit juices (flights of four different kinds), fruit, pastries and the Inn’s own granola. A list of hot breakfast entrees were available for $25 each but we were fine with the continental breakfast. A short time later we checked out and made the trip back home to rescue our new kitten, Manny.
A lengthy post about a one-night visit, but it was a memorable and enjoyable trip. I felt I learned a few things. Going on a Thursday evening and returning home Friday is a plus because it automatically makes it a four-day weekend. I can see ourselves returning to the Inn for special occasions. It will also be fun to see how the Inn continues to evolve over time. It’s a special place and I hope it’s able to remain special for decades to come.
In May 2019, Laurie was serendipitously in town for Mother’s Day, a month before her 70th Birthday, and I was delighted to be able to get us an afternoon table at the Inn. I had long wanted for Laurie to have a chance to experience a meal at the Inn.
We left home about 11am, giving us plenty of time to stop on Barb’s behalf at Long John Silver’s in Charles Town for a little Mother’s Day brunch of fried shrimp and fish. We arrived at the Inn around 2pm and repaired for a bit to the living room and a “Momosa.” We tried to get a kitchen tour but Cameron Smith, the Cheese Wiz, said it was not possible on this busy day. Instead, he escorted us outside and pointed out the paths we could take to tour the grounds and see in the kitchen. The rain lifted enough for Laurie and I to take a little walk around the grounds while Barb sought out a warm fireplace to read.
Enjoying our Momosas 
Feeding Jonah, the llama 
Very well tended sheep and goats
Laurie and I headed down to the Sheep’s Meadow and encountered the sheep, goats and llamas about to be fed. The handler, whose name I unfortunately didn’t catch, encouraged us to feed the llamas and told us marvelous stories involving the animals and especially the neighborhood bears. She was as much a performer and storyteller as she was animal handler.
We toured more of the grounds and were able to glimpse Chef Patrick O’Connell commanding the kitchen. Or at least I did; Laurie saw mostly hedges from her lower vantage point. After our tour, we joined Barb for a bit in the living room of the Parsonage, getting warm by the fireplace before our meal.
With three of us, we each selected different menus of the day and thus covered all the available bases, sharing as we went along. All the dishes were sublime, as always, it seems. We ate and ate, and were all consistent members of the clean plate club for each course. Laurie seemed suitably impressed with the whole show.
Evaluating the whole experience, and being Mother’s Day, I think we saw the Inn under maximum levels of stress. The service and all aspects of the meal were still excellent, but a tiny bit less relaxed and welcoming compared to previous visits. That’s not meant as a knock at all. I’m amazed they can maintain such a high level experience even under the crush of a maximum crowd. It is a theater, and O’Connell and his staff are world class players at the top of their game. The whole town is now something of a gastronomic theme park, an alternate reality you buy into for a few hours. But being our second trip within a year, I realize you can start to glimpse a bit of the artifice behind the art. Best to keep it a special occasion and be transported by the total effect.
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