Killarney (Dingle Peninsula)
Michael told us that Walter, the owner of Walter’s Way Tours, wanted to meet us while we were in Killarney. They arranged for us to get together at 9am for a cuppa (actually a Diet Coke for me) at a cafe down the street from our hotel. Walter turned out to be quite the gregarious character – which was not really a surprise – and an entrepreneurial frontman with fingers in many pots. In addition to expanding his tour empire to other European destinations, he talked up a feature film he evidently plans to make at Muckross House later this year. His main question for us was why we requested the Ross Hotel. We were evidently the first to do so and the place hadn’t really been on his radar before. I said it was mainly based on TripAdvisor reviews and the feel of their website. Otherwise we spent a pleasant hour chatting mostly about Walter’s various adventures and initiatives. It was nice he took time to meet us.
We got rolling with Michael on our drive around the Dingle Peninsula by 10am. The weather was better than it had been for our Ring of Kerry drive so we were optimistic. We drove for nearly an hour through pleasant but nondescript countryside without a stop before reaching the peninsula’s north shore.
As we passed a wild looking beach with heavy waves I asked to stop. I believe it was Ballinknockane Bay Beach which is mostly known for surfing. It was not on Michael’s itinerary but he was game to explore a bit. We found a beach access and stopped long enough for me to get a couple of shots. There were only a handful of other people on this expansive but very windy beach, including one kite surfer in the far distance. There were no surfers and no amenities evident on this long, chilly coastline.
We headed up Conor Pass, stopping in a few places for shots of the dramatic valley, including waterfalls. It was oddly reminiscent of driving in Hawaii up Haleakela. There were surprisingly few buildings or evidence of habitation along this part of the drive, possibly because it was the windy north face of the peninsula. I don’t think it was a natural preserve or parkland, and its hard to imagine any part of Ireland was considered too rugged or inclement to build some homesteads or farms.
We stopped briefly at the top of Conor Pass, braving an almost comically strong and bitterly cold wind whistling through from the other side. The photo session was short but beautiful. I had to hold onto my hat.
We drove down the other side of the mountain toward the town of Dingle. Mike offered time to wander the town but we were happy with a quick stop to see the statue and learn the story of the Dingle dolphin Fungie, which Barb did not know. For decades, Fungie welcomed visitors and reliably frolicked in Dingle Harbor. He seemed to be more at home with humans than with other dolphins. Fungie finally disappeared in 2020 but his memory lives on.
We headed on the Slea Head Drive to the beach at Ventry, a popular spot on warmer days. We were protected from the wind on this part of the peninsula so it was more pleasant, though still chilly. Barb walked all the way to the water and confirmed it was frigid. As we were leaving, two hardy ladies went in for a short while up to their thighs, not quite a full dip. We enjoyed watching the show and even Michael thought they were crazy.
Our next stop was a Fairy Fort (round fort) and Pet Farm. Michael knew this was slightly out of our comfort zone but said that Walter would pay for it so we gave it a go, more for the fort than for the animals. But as we walked in they gave us two cups of pet food and the sheep and goats immediately knew we had them. They would not be denied and they were awfully cute. There were also alpaca, horses, pigs (we didn’t feed them) and probably more. We ended up learning nothing in particular about the fairy fort but the stop was fun and made for many photos. We were both eager to wash our hands thoroughly after the visit.
We were on the south coast of the Dingle Peninsula and had a nice view of the Iveragh peninsula with the Ring of Kerry. In the far distance I could see the Skellig Islands.
We stopped a few kilometers further at the Beehive Huts in Fahan. These may (or may not) be the most famous of Dingle’s beehive huts, but it was not crowded. I was disappointed that the first couple of huts were not fully covered but there was a third hut that was fully roofed. It was remarkable to go inside and see how solidly built and dry it was.
The weather was mostly sunny and cool, but there were intermittent clouds that carried mists of rain. It was interesting to see these little veils of showers march across the bays and mountainsides. Every now and then we would drive through one but they were always short.
We passed the actual Slea Head without fanfare but wrapped around the peninsula and started getting nice views of the Blasket Islands. Michael helped pick out places on the small winding road to stop for photos.
We stopped at Coomeenoole Beach where we found a cluster of people with expensive cameras and tripods all focused on the same stretch. They turned out to be a photography class/tour with several assignments for taking dramatic shots of the coast and islands. It seemed a more productive way to see Ireland than taking a golf tour.
We stopped at the Dunquin Pier, the spot on the mainland the Blasket Islanders would row to and from to reach the mainland. Even the path down to the pier was impossibly steep and winding. I didn’t go all the way down but as I turned around I could see a cloud of rain coming our way. I found Barb partway up the path talking to a lady from New Jersey. I tried to encourage them to move back to the cars but they were slow to take the hint. The cold rain soon caught us and quickly started to soak us as we ran the rest of the way to Mike’s van.
We drove a short bit further to the Blasket Centre where Barb’s first stop was the bathroom to dry her hair. The newly modernized Centre told the compelling story of the Blasket Islanders who forged a uniquely tight community for centuries before finally agreeing to relocate to the mainland in 1953. Many of the islanders wrote stories of their isolated lives and are memorialized at the Centre. So was their unique connection to Springfield, Massachusetts where several generations of islanders relocated.
The Centre itself was excellent and also had a very nice viewing platform to contemplate the islands. I enjoyed a quiet few minutes there on my own.
A short while after leaving the Centre I asked Michael to stop as I tried to capture a rainbow that formed over Clogher Strand.
We drove onward to the Gallarus Oratory, reputed to be among the oldest intact Christian churches in Ireland. It’s beautifully built and there is some conjecture that it may have been constructed more recently than the 8th-10th century. Regardless, it’s a special place and I was pleased we could wander around in it for a few minutes on our own.
With our day nearly complete, Michael hightailed it back to Killarney, particularly since we had a dinner reservation. We saw a few cool rainbows but we didn’t insist on a stop. I took shots from the car as best as I could.
Likewise, we rolled by Inch Beach which looked impressive but we didn’t actually stop for a photo.
All in all, our day of driving the Dingle Peninsula was an improvement over the Ring of Kerry mainly thanks to the weather. The Blasket Centre was an unexpected treat and the highlight for me. I’m not sure if there is an equivalent museum/center for the Skellig Islands but we certainly didn’t see it. I’m glad we were able to see both the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula – I’d be hard-pressed to pick one over the other but I wouldn’t want to have missed either. I’m sure there was more to see in and around Dingle; it is a popular alternative to Killarney as a base for exploring southwest Ireland but after our quick tour we were pleased to head back to Killarney.
We made it back by 6:30, well in time for our 7pm reservation at The Mad Monk. Dinner there was very nice: more fish and chips for Barb and a crab claw in garlic butter appetizer for me. We capped it off with Murphy’s Ice Cream, a nice treat to end the day. I had the opportunity to go find some music for the evening but elected to stay in the room. We fell asleep to a crappy James Bond movie, Tomorrow Never Dies, perfect for dozing off to.
You must be logged in to post a comment.